A Poetic Homecoming: Cavafy’s Ithaca
In his poem Sailing to Ithaca, Konstantinos Cavafy uses Odysseus’ return from Troy as a metaphor for the human journey. Ithaca, rugged and luminous, stands as a symbol of final destinations—an island of myth and memory. With its walking trails, traditional tavernas, and modest archaeological remains, it offers an enchanting experience. But is this truly the home of Odysseus and Penelope?
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Doubts from Ancient Names and Modern Maps
In 1797, Greek nationalist Rigas Velestinlis referred to Ithaca as Doulichion, echoing the naming from Strabo’s 1st-century writings. Strabo had named modern Kefalonia as Sami. This historical ambiguity, along with the region’s seismic activity, has prompted some—like a British foundation—to question the traditional identification of Odysseus’ palace. Yet today, Ithaca assumes its identity without dispute, while Kefalonia focuses on its dramatic natural beauty rather than ancient claims.
Myth in the Landscape: Ithaca’s Hero Worship
Across Ithaca, references to Odysseus abound. Statues, old and new, depict the king of Ithaca with gravitas or cunning charm. Guided Homeric trails appear on fliers pinned to telegraph poles. Still, the island’s archaeological panels are faded and underwhelming, leaving much to visitors’ imagination. In contrast, its walking paths are among the Mediterranean’s best marked.
A Legendary Search: Schliemann and the Palace of Odysseus
The search for Odysseus’ palace began with Heinrich Schliemann. In 1868, he identified M. Aetos—a dramatic peak above the port of Pio Aetos—as the site. He unearthed ancient Alakomenai, a town with a commanding view of the Straits of Ithaca and Vathi Bay. Despite the allure, the steep incline likely ruled out the presence of a grand Bronze Age palace.
W.A. Heurtley, a British archaeologist, found Mycenaean remains on M. Aetos in the 1930s but no palace. Still, the hike to the summit, marked by red dots, offers views and sensations that feel undeniably Homeric. The summit’s silence and sweeping 360° panoramas evoke the timelessness of myth.
Caves Over Palaces: Sylvia Benton’s Discovery
Heurtley’s assistant, Sylvia Benton, pursued her own path. An intrepid archaeologist with a love for caves, she excavated a sanctuary at Polis Bay in 1932-33. There she uncovered Mycenaean and later-period treasures in a partially submerged cave. Though the cave later collapsed after the 1953 earthquake, her discoveries gave Ithaca real material links to its Homeric past.
Today, a faded sign on the beach recalls Benton’s pioneering work. The waters of Polis Bay shimmer still, and the nearby ruins of a Byzantine chapel suggest ancient mariners too felt connected to this legendary site.
Stavros and ‘Homer’s School’: A New Palace Candidate
Above Polis Bay lies the village of Stavros, proud of its Odyssean ties. In the village square sits a statue of Odysseus and a “virtual museum” with a model of a palace identified as Homer’s School. Though built on scant archaeological evidence, the model reflects local passion and scholarly speculation.
The original suggestion came from William Gell in 1806, during British rule. Gell’s book The Geography and Antiquities of Ithaca earned him acclaim, yet Schliemann ignored Gell’s site in favor of M. Aetos.
Finding Homer’s School
The actual site of Homer’s School lies on a terrace northeast of Stavros, beneath the Monastery of Aghia Panagias. Signposted trails guide you through cicada-laden groves and abandoned farms. Among the ruins are rock-cut steps, a Hellenistic tower-house, and fragments of ancient structures—difficult to interpret without a guide. The place, however, is enchanting, with vistas that stretch toward Afales and Frinkon bays.
Vathy: The Modern Capital with Ancient Echoes
Vathy, Ithaca’s main town, lies 15 miles south. Once envisioned as the site for a University of Ithaca under British rule, it now thrives as a modest tourist hub. Its museum houses Mycenaean and Hellenistic artifacts, though many treasures from Benton’s excavations seem to be in storage.
Above Vathy, hiking trails lead to the Grotto of the Nymphs and the Fountain of Arethusa, both linked to Homeric lore. Though the archaeology is sparse, the scenery—overlooking the Ionian Sea—is stunning and worth the effort.
Conclusion: Myth, Memory, and the Magic of Ithaca
Whether or not Ithaca holds the true palace of Odysseus may never be known. What remains is the power of place: the silence of mountaintops, the shimmer of Polis Bay, and the echoes of Homer in olive groves and windblown hills. Ithaca, like Cavafy’s poem, is more about the journey than the destination—its myth woven through landscape, light, and longing.
