Rajakesari Vinnagaram, Once a grand and celebrated temple, Rajakesari Vinnagaram. Generously endowed with grants by the mighty Chola kings, now stands in ruins—reduced to a mere pile of granite debris. Surrounded by dense vegetation, trees, and overgrown bushes, the temple remains hidden in a forest-like landscape, with hardly any visitors to witness its former glory.
Inscriptions from the site reveal that the name “Rajakesari Vinnagaram” carries historical significance. The titles Rajakesari and Parakesari were used alternately by Chola rulers, while Vinnagaram was a term used to denote Vishnu temples. This once-majestic temple is located in Kotramangalam village, approximately 25 kilometers from Tiruchirappalli, near the village of Anbil.
Anbil itself is home to the renowned Sundararaja Perumal Kovil, a Vaishnavite temple sanctified by the hymns of saint poets. The village is also notable for being the birthplace of two distinguished Chola Prime Ministers and Generals—Anirudhdha, who served under Rajaraja Chola, and Jananatha, who served under Rajendra Chola.
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The primary deity of Rajakesari Vinnagaram is Vishnu, once enshrined in a grand sanctum. Today, a massive granite sculpture of Vishnu in his reclining form, Ananthasaayi, lies displaced from the temple ruins. It is now sheltered under a simple tin sheet, standing as a silent witness to the temple’s lost splendor.
Kotramangalam: The Forgotten Legacy of Jananathanallur
Kotramangalam, known in one of the temple inscriptions as Jananathanallur, holds a significant place in Chola history. As we step into the remnants of this once-magnificent temple complex, a striking figure of a Bootha greets us—a signature element present in all medieval Chola temples. Seated at the base of a small mandapa with folded hands, this guardian figure silently welcomes visitors, offering a glimpse into the temple’s rich artistic heritage.
The entrance to the mandapa captivates with its intricately carved thoranas on both sides. These ornamental arches feature stunning miniature sculptures, depicting scenes from the Ramayana and Srimad Bhagavata Purana. Notable among them are the figures of Lord Rama holding his bow and Krishna engaged in battle with Bakasura, the demon disguised as a bird. The craftsmanship and attention to detail in these carvings stand as a testament to the artistic excellence of the Chola period.
Chola artisans created such miniature depictions of Ramayana and Bhagavata Purana in temples built across Tamil Nadu during the reign of Aditya Chola and his son Parantaka Chola. The temple at Kotramangalam continues this artistic tradition, showcasing these mythological narratives in stone.
Sadly, the temple’s garbhagriha (sanctum sanctorum) and maha mandapa are in a state of severe ruin. The sanctum, a towering brick structure nearly fifty feet in height, now stands in a precarious condition, its grandeur faded with time. As seen in the available images, the site bears the marks of neglect. With nature slowly reclaiming what was once a thriving center of worship and devotion.
Despite its present state, Kotramangalam’s temple offers an invaluable connection to the past. Echoing the grandeur of Chola architecture and devotion that once flourished here.
Rajakesari Vinnagaram: A Silent Witness to Chola Grandeur and Decline
Today, the once-glorious Rajakesari Vinnagaram stands as a testament to the architectural and spiritual wealth of the Chola dynasty. Except for a massive sculpture of Vishnu in his reclining Ananthasayi form, no other sculptures remain within the ruins. However, the temple’s basement is remarkably intact. Adorned with numerous Tamil inscriptions that span the reigns of legendary Chola rulers—Aditya, Parantaka, Rajaraja, Rajendra, Kulothunga, and Vikrama. These inscriptions primarily document grants of land and perpetual lights offered to the temple.
One of the most notable inscriptions from the reign of Rajaraja Chola records an endowment of land to the deity. Referred to as Rajakesari Vinnagar Emperuman. Specifically for performing the sacred bath rituals on Vaikunta Ekadashi and Dwadasi days. Another inscription from the same period details a generous grant by a devotee named Avanamudayan Marthandan. Who provided resources to conduct the annual Thiruvizha (festival) on Sadhaya Nakshatra, the birth star of Rajaraja Chola.
Despite the wealth of historical information inscribed on the temple’s base. Researchers have yet to decipher and publish many of these half-buried records. Holding untold stories of devotion and prosperity from the Chola era.
The invasions of Malik Kafur and Ulugh Khan in the early 14th century are believed to have triggered the temple’s decline. These invasions resulted in widespread destruction and plundering of Hindu temples across the region. Leading to the fall of Rajakesari Vinnagaram from its former splendor.
Today, Vishnu—the protector of the universe—lies exposed under the open sky. With only a tin sheet providing minimal shelter. The deity patiently awaits the attention of authorities to restore his sacred abode to its original grandeur. Preserving an invaluable piece of Tamil heritage for future generations.
