A Villa in the Country

Overlooked Heartlands of the Roman Empire

The Danubian provinces—Pannonia, Moesia, and Illyricum—rarely feature in modern historical accounts, despite their vital role in both Roman and medieval times. These regions were not only the birthplace of several late Roman emperors, known as the Illyrian emperors, but also fertile zones rich in agriculture and industry. However, finding detailed modern literature on this subject in English remains a challenge.

The main imperial palace at Gamzigrad. This enormous fortified villa has been excavated since the 1950s. The formal imperial complex functioned alongside a smaller and more private villa, presumably the imperial quarters. [Images: courtesy of Lescovac Museum.]

Crossing into the Balkans

Leaving behind the Austro-Hungarian world along the Danube and heading south brings a cultural shift. Baroque architecture disappears, cuisine turns meat-heavy and reminiscent of Greek, Macedonian, and Turkish flavors, and the atmosphere carries echoes of resistance against both Ottoman Pashas and Austro-Hungarian rulers. It is here that many emperors were born—and returned to die.

A fragment of an archivolt from Gamzigrad, which provides the crucial evidence of the Roman name for the complex: Felix Romuliana.

Galerius and the Villa at Gamzigrad

The best-known of the late Roman villa-palaces is at Gamzigrad, initially mistaken for a Roman fort. Excavations since the 1950s have revealed a vast, fortified imperial complex known as Felix Romuliana, named after Galerius’ mother, Romula.

Galerius, Diocletian’s fiery and authoritarian successor, built this grand estate around AD 298. His death in 311, marked by suffering and chronicled with satisfaction by Christian writers, adds drama to the story. Both he and his mother were cremated on a hill above the site, with their burial pyres yielding rich finds including gold ornaments and intricate metalwork.

A Palace Fit for an Emperor

Felix Romuliana was more than a villa—it was a self-contained city. Bold polygonal towers surrounded a site containing:

A grand imperial palace with reception halls and guest suites
Baths adorned with mosaics
A smaller private palace
A major temple to Jupiter and Hercules
Service quarters, barracks, and a bustling outer settlement

Today, architectural fragments and sculptures are on display at the site and in the museum at Zaječar, revealing a mix of Classical and late Roman styles, including powerful purple porphyry statues of emperors.

A mosaic of Dionysus at the entrance to the imperialdining chamber at Gamzigrad.

Sarkamen and a Family Legacy

Another imperial villa site lies at Sarkamen, perched on a misty hillside. Smaller and more enigmatic, only its wall circuit has been uncovered. This estate likely belonged to Maximinus Daia, Galerius’ nephew. A mausoleum there yielded no bodies, but did offer exquisite golden jewelry, now housed in the Serbian National Museum in Belgrade. These treasures likely belonged to Maximinus’ mother—Galerius’ sister—who was interred there.

Aerial view of the Acropolis, or upper city, at Justiniana Prima (Caricin Grad). This walled enclosure contains the cathedral, baptistery, and bishop’s palace. Outside can be seen parts of the main city: shops, warehouses, and the famous ‘circular forum’ or tetrapylon.

Constantine’s Birthplace and the Villas of Mediana

Further south lies Niš, birthplace of Constantine the Great. A modern park now stands where a Turkish fortress once dominated the ancient city. The nearby Mediana villa complex is undergoing significant reconstruction and excavation under Dr. Vesna Crnoglavac of the Niš Museum.

An imperial porphyry bust of Galerius, which was found at Gamzigrad and was probably once part of a double group showing Galerius and his colleague Severus II. The quarries for the stone were at Mons Porphyrites in Egypt.

Mediana boasts:

A central colonnaded complex likely used for administration
Ornate mosaic rooms, possibly imperial residences
A secluded, towered section for privacy
Two large service courtyards with:
- Barracks, stores, and stables
- Warehouses housing massive dolia (storage jars)
- A wine press—suggesting large-scale wine production

One warehouse alone held 36 dolia, capable of storing around 126,000 litres of wine—a supply for the imperial court and military garrisons.

Excavations underway at Caricin Grad. Despite its elaborate planning and the presence of so many high-status buildings within the walls, Justiniana Prima was built quite crudely and quickly.

Justinian’s Vision: Justiniana Prima

In the 6th century, amid instability and invasions, Justinian the Great sought to counterbalance ecclesiastical power by creating a new Archbishopric in the Balkans. He chose his (or his mother’s) home village as the site for a new imperial city: Justiniana Prima.

The mausoleum of Galerius’ sister in the mist at Sarkamen.

This planned city featured:

A fortified citadel with cathedral and archbishop’s palace
Colonnaded streets and a circular forum
A bronze statue of Justinian
A lower city filled with noble villas and churches
Suburbs for commoners
Workshops producing carved ivory, metalwork, and luxury goods
An aqueduct and reservoir

Though built in a Classical style, its materials and layout anticipated the Early Medieval world, making it a model of Late Antiquity. Sadly, today the site suffers from neglect, with little funding for conservation.

Excavations at the imperial villa at Mediana, near Nis. This is part of the bath complex connected to the (imperial?) quarters

A Journey’s End

This archaeological journey through Serbia concluded at Justiniana Prima, but the country’s rich medieval heritage—with its remarkable churches and an empire that once rivalled Byzantium—awaits future exploration. Despite modern challenges, Serbia remains a welcoming land steeped in history, offering unique insight into the forgotten corners of the Roman world.